09 December 2010

Hummus

Even a hardcore carnivore such as myself has vegetarian and vegan friends. What's something that has protein in it, is filling and fits the vegan requirement not to bring violence or oppression to animal or insect? Honestly, I think hummus is the only vegan-approved thing we make.

Hummus:
3-6 large garlic cloves
2 15½ oz cans chick peas, drained and rinsed to remove excess salt
¼ C tahini
¼ C fresh lemon juice
up to 1¾ tsp salt
½ tsp cumin
½ C olive oil
When I was a poor graduate student, I would try to make this by crushing chickpeas in a ziploc bag using an old wine bottle as a rolling pin.  I do not recommend that technique.

Chickpeas

Place the chickpeas in a food processor.  Pulse until well-ground.

Add all the other ingredients, save the oil.  Pulse until well-ground.  Slowly add the oil while grinding in the food processor.

oil

You want a nice chickpea, garlic, olive oil emulsion.

hummus

Chill in the fridge a few hours prior to serving.  Serve with veggies or mushrooms.

07 December 2010

Lemon cream tart

I'm a little bit frightened to share this post with you.  I may never have a better post than this one.  This tart is the most fabulous dessert ever attempted here at Indirect Heat.  And it's a unique creation, shared by a family of physicians living in the heart of Pigtown in Baltimore.  It is the bastard child of Dorie Greenspan's lemon cream (from Baking: From My Home to Yours) and Thomas Keller's pine nut crust (from The French Laundry Cookbook).

This tart is perfection.

tart

Start with the filling, adapted from Baking: From My Home to Yours:
2 cups sugar
grated zest of 6 lemons
8 large eggs
1 1/2 cup fresh lemon juice
5 sticks plus 2 tbsp (21 oz) unsalted butter, at room temperature
Chop the butter into 1 tbsp chunks.  Set aside.

Zest the lemons into the top part of a double-boiler.

lemon zest

Mix with the sugar.  Squeeze the zest with your fingers to liberate lemon-zest-oils into the sugar, until the sugar becomes slightly damp to the touch.

lemon zest sugar

Beat the eggs until light and foamy.  Whisk them into the sugar mixture.  Whisk in the lemon juice slowly.  Place the double-boiler over top of a pot of gently boiling water.  Put a thermometer into the mix.

Whisk the mixture constantly.  If you stop for even a minute, you'll end up with lemon-scrambled eggs.  Not quite what we're going for.

When the mixture hits 170°F, take the pot off the heat.  It will have thickened considerably, much like a custard.  Pass the lemon goo through a sieve, to take out the lemon zest.

Lemon cream

Add to a blender.  Let the goo cool to around 140°F (I found that after sieving into the blender, it was already below 140°F).  I have a small blender, and had to do this in two batches.

While the goo is blending, add the butter, 3-4 tbsp at a time (in 1 tbsp chunks).  Keep the blender going, you're making an emulsion of lemon-egg and butter.  The cream will thicken and lighten into an airy, lemony cream.  The texture at this stage is already pure heaven. Put plastic wrap over the surface of the cream so it doesn't develop a 'skin'.

Place in the fridge, and chill for 3-4 hours.

Now, make the crust (adapted from The French Laundry Cookbook):
2 cups pine nuts
1/3 cup sugar
3 cups all-purpose flour
16 tbsp unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 large egg
1 tsp vanilla extract

Pine nuts

Grind the pine nuts in a food processor.

Ground pine nuts

Pulse in the sugar.  And then the flour.

Pine nut mix

Add the butter, egg and vanilla.

Pine nut pastry

Mix together with your hands into a homogenous mess, then chill in the fridge at least an hour.

Coat butter on the inside of your tart tins.  Be generous.  Then dust some flour on top of the butter, and shake out the excess.  Form the pastry into your tart tins.  I managed to get 14 medium-sized tarts from this recipe.

Pine nut crust

Pre-heat your oven to 350°F.  Bake the tart shells for 10-15 minutes until until golden brown.

Baked pine nut crust

When the filling has chilled completely, gently remove the tart shells from the tart pans. Scoop generous dollops of lemon cream into the tarts. Serve immediately.

Lemon cream tart

The lemon cream melts as it hits your mouth.  The crust explodes when you touch it with your fork.  The flavour is perfect.  The texture is amazing.

Next time, I'll make it with yuzu instead of lemon.  Yum.

30 November 2010

Mrs. Hutton's biscuits

Thanksgiving is a trickier cooking time. When you cook for family, you have a broader swath of eaters than at any other time that you cook. There's Aunt Martha the vegetarian, and cousin Vinny who only eats hamburgers.

So on a Wednesday night before Thanksgiving, what do you cook that is delicious, but will meet everyone's needs? Biscuits is a start.

This recipe was handed to my mother by our small-town reverend's wife in the 1970s (Mrs. Hutton). My mom then handed the recipe to me when I went to college.
3 C flour
⅓ C sugar
3 heaping tsp baking powder
½ C butter
~1 C milk
Preheat your oven to 400° F. Sift sugar and flour. Cut in butter. Add milk and mix with your hands to a gooey consistency.

Making the dough

Roll out on counter and cut individual biscuits.

Rolling out the dough

Don’t handle them too much.

Cut biscuits

Bake at 400° F for 20 minutes or until lightly browned.

Biscuits

Serve. These are amazing the day they're cooked. Mrs. Dude thinks they're pretty good on day 2 as well. I disagree. Bake only as many as you think you'll eat the night you make them.